A terrarium is basically a tiny planet in a jarminus the rent, the traffic, and the group chat drama. And the best part? You don’t need a designer cloche or a boutique “artisan pebble blend” to build one. With a few dollar store finds and a little know-how, you can make a cute, legit terrarium that looks expensive (but isn’t).
This guide walks you through a cheap terrarium DIY using mostly dollar store supplies, with options for both closed terrariums (humid, self-cycling vibe) and open terrariums (more airflow, less moisture). You’ll get step-by-step instructions, plant suggestions, common mistakes to avoid, and easy care tips so your jar doesn’t turn into a foggy science experiment.
What Counts as “Dollar Store Cheap” (and What’s Worth Upgrading)
You can build a terrarium for under $10–$15 depending on what you already have at home. Dollar stores are great for:
- Glass containers (candy jars, fishbowls, cookie jars, vases)
- Decor rocks (aquarium gravel, river stones, decorative pebbles)
- Moss (craft/floral moss, sheet moss in some locations)
- Mini décor (tiny figurines, mini fences, seasonal accents)
- Tools (tongs, spoons, small paintbrushes, spray bottles)
Two things you may need from outside the dollar store (depending on selection) are: activated charcoal (often found in pet/aquarium sections, sometimes at dollar stores) and a decent potting mix (small bags are usually cheap at big-box stores). If your dollar store has them, grab them there and take the win.
Closed vs. Open Terrarium: Pick Your Jar Personality
Closed terrarium (with lid)
Closed terrariums trap humidity and recycle moisture through evaporation and condensation. They’re ideal for plants that love a humid environmentthink mosses, small ferns, and fittonia (nerve plant). They can be low-maintenance once balanced, but they punish overwatering fast.
Open terrarium (no lid or wide opening)
Open terrariums breathe. That makes them better for plants that prefer drier conditions and airflow. If you’re dreaming of a succulent terrarium, go openclosed jars and succulents usually don’t mix.
Not sure which to choose? If you want “lush rainforest in a jar,” go closed. If you want “desert vibes with rocks,” go open.
Dollar Store Shopping List (Budget-Friendly Terrarium Supplies)
Here’s a practical list you can take into the store so you don’t wander aisle-to-aisle holding a glass vase like a confused contestant on a game show:
Must-haves
- Glass container: jar, vase, fishbowl, apothecary jar, cookie jar
- Drainage layer: small pebbles, aquarium gravel, river stones
- Activated charcoal: aquarium/pet section if available (or buy a small bag elsewhere)
- Barrier: sheet moss, sphagnum moss, or a small piece of mesh/screen material
- Soil: sterile potting mix (houseplant mix works; adjust for succulents if open)
- Plants: mini tropicals for closed; succulents/cacti for open
Helpful extras (still cheap)
- Small spray bottle (for controlled watering)
- Tongs/chopsticks (for placing plants in narrow jars)
- Small paintbrush (to tidy soil off leaves and glass)
- Mini décor: stones, sand, figurines (optionaldon’t let décor bully your plants)
The Cheap Terrarium Formula: The Layers That Make It Work
Terrariums don’t have drainage holes. That means you’re building a mini system that handles moisture without turning roots into soup. Most successful builds follow a simple layering strategy:
- Drainage layer (rocks/gravel) – Creates space for excess water to settle away from roots. In many containers, this is around ½ inch to 2 inches depending on size.
- Activated charcoal – Helps keep things fresher by filtering and reducing funk. You only need a thin layer (often around ¼ to ½ inch). Skip charcoal briquettes from the grillthey can contain additives you don’t want in your tiny ecosystem.
- Barrier layer (moss or mesh) – Keeps soil from sifting down into the rocks and charcoal, which helps the terrarium stay cleaner and more functional.
- Soil layer – Usually about an inch or two for small containers, more for larger. Keep the total base layers roughly ¼ to ⅓ of the container height so plants still have room.
This layering is the difference between “cute mini garden” and “mysterious jar swamp.” Choose your destiny.
Step-by-Step: Cheap Dollar Store Terrarium DIY (Closed Jar Version)
Step 1: Clean the container (seriously)
Wash the glass with soap and water, then dry thoroughly. If you want extra caution, wipe it down so you’re starting as clean as possible. Clean glass also looks better, which matters because… it’s literally a display case for dirt.
Step 2: Add the drainage layer
Pour in gravel or small stones. Aim for a layer that suits the container size (often around 1 inch for medium jars). Tap the container lightly to level it.
Step 3: Sprinkle in activated charcoal
Add a thin layer across the top of the stones. You’re not building a charcoal lasagnajust a light, even layer.
Step 4: Add a barrier (moss or mesh)
Lay sheet moss or a cut-to-fit piece of mesh/screen over the charcoal. This helps keep soil where it belongs and makes your layers stay crisp-looking.
Step 5: Add soil (don’t pack it down like concrete)
Add sterile potting mix. Gently slope it if you want visual depth (higher in the back, lower in the front). Lightly press to remove huge air pockets, but don’t compact it hard.
Step 6: Choose the right plants for a closed terrarium
Closed terrariums are happiest with small, slow-growing humidity lovers. Great choices include:
- Fittonia (nerve plant) – colorful leaves, loves humidity
- Small ferns – soft, woodland vibe
- Mini peperomia – compact and terrarium-friendly
- Moss – the “carpet” that makes everything look intentional
Step 7: Plant with intention (and a spoon)
Use a spoon to make small holes. Loosen root balls gently if they’re tightly bound. Place plants, then tuck soil around them. Keep leaves off the soil surface when possible to reduce rot.
Step 8: Add moss and simple décor
Add moss around plant bases to cover exposed soil and give a finished look. If you’re adding décor, go small and minimal. Remember: your plants are the main characters. The tiny plastic dinosaur is a supporting actor at best.
Step 9: Water lightly, then close the lid
A closed terrarium needs much less water than a normal pot. Start with a small amountoften misting or a few teaspoons to tablespoons depending on size. You can always add more later; removing excess water is harder.
Step 10: Place in bright, indirect light
Avoid direct sun. Direct sunlight can heat the glass like a mini greenhouse oven and stress or burn plants. Bright, indirect light is the sweet spot.
Open Terrarium Version (Perfect for Succulent “Desert” Looks)
If you want succulents, build an open terrarium. The main differences:
- Use a grittier, fast-draining mix (cactus/succulent mix is easiest).
- Water far less frequentlyonly when the soil dries out.
- Skip the lid entirely to keep humidity from building up.
You can still use a drainage layer and a pinch of charcoal, but airflow is the key feature that keeps desert plants happier.
Cheap Terrarium Design Ideas Using Dollar Store Finds
1) “Rainforest in a Cookie Jar”
Use a cookie jar with a lid, add fittonia + moss + a small fern, and finish with a few smooth stones. This style looks high-end even if your gravel came from the same place you buy snack-size chips.
2) “Minimalist Zen Bowl”
Use a fishbowl or wide vase. Build a gentle slope, add one small fern or peperomia, and top with moss. Keep décor simpleone piece of driftwood-looking décor or a few contrasting pebbles is enough.
3) “Seasonal Swap Terrarium”
Make the plant layer neutral and swap only the décor: tiny pumpkins in fall, mini ornaments in winter, pastel accents in spring. The trick is to keep decorations away from delicate stems and avoid anything that can mold.
Terrarium Care That Keeps It Alive (Not Just Cute on Day One)
How often should you water a closed terrarium?
Often, not much. Many closed terrariums only need water occasionallysometimes every few monthsdepending on light, plants, and soil. Check it every couple of weeks. If the soil looks dry and you’re seeing no condensation at all, it may need a small drink.
Condensation: friend, not enemy (until it’s too much)
Light condensation is normal in a closed terrarium. But if the glass looks like a car windshield in a rainstorm all day, you likely overwatered. Fix: open the lid for a bit to let moisture escape, then close it again once it calms down.
Light rules
- Bright, indirect light is ideal for most terrariums.
- No direct sun through glass (it can overheat fast).
- If plants stretch or fade, try a brighter spotbut still indirect.
Quick mold management
If you see a little mold, don’t panic. Remove dead leaves right away, wipe the glass if needed, and increase airflow temporarily by cracking the lid. Mold usually signals too much moisture or decaying plant material.
Common Mistakes (So You Don’t Accidentally Invent Jar Soup)
- Overwatering – the #1 terrarium villain. Start tiny. Terrariums are not thirsty houseplants; they’re moisture misers.
- Mixing incompatible plants – don’t combine succulents (dry lovers) with moss/ferns (humidity lovers) in the same environment.
- Direct sun placement – it can turn your terrarium into a hot glass sauna.
- Skipping drainage layers – without a drainage zone, excess water sits where roots live. Roots do not enjoy living in a puddle.
- Using the wrong charcoal – avoid grill briquettes; stick with activated charcoal meant for filtration.
Cost Breakdown Example (A Realistic “Cheap” Build)
Here’s a common under-$12 setup:
- Glass jar or vase: $1.25–$5 (depending on store and size)
- Decor pebbles/aquarium gravel: $1.25
- Sheet moss or craft moss: $1.25
- Mini spray bottle or tongs: $1.25 (optional)
- Small bag of potting mix: $3–$6 (often not dollar store)
- Activated charcoal: $4–$8 (small bag, aquarium section or elsewhere)
- Mini plants: $6–$15 (depends on where you buy; you can also propagate cuttings when appropriate)
If you already have soil at home, the price drops fast. If you reuse a jar (pasta sauce, candle jar, cookie jar), it drops even faster. This is one of the rare crafts where being thrifty also looks classy.
Extra: Experiences and Real-World Lessons From Making Cheap Terrariums (500+ Words)
If you’ve never made a terrarium before, here’s what people commonly experience when they try a dollar store terrarium DIY for the first timeplus what those “oops” moments teach you. Consider this the part where your terrarium stops being a cute craft and starts being a tiny relationship you have to maintain (but, thankfully, it won’t ask you to help it move).
First, almost everyone underestimates how much the container opening matters. Wide openings make planting easy: you can position roots, smooth soil, and place moss without turning your hands into origami. Narrow-neck jars look charming, but they force you to use toolstongs, chopsticks, a spoon taped to a skewer, whatever works. The common experience here is: the jar chooses the difficulty level. If you want a relaxing afternoon craft, pick a container with a generous opening. If you want to feel like a surgeon performing bonsai-scale operations, choose the tiny mouth jar.
Second, there’s the universal “wow, that’s way less water than I expected” realization. Many new terrarium makers water like they’re caring for a typical potted plant. Then the jar fogs up, the soil darkens, and panic sets in. The lesson: terrariums don’t have drainage holes, so you’re managing moisture carefully. For closed terrariums, a small initial watering is often enough to kick off the water cycle. After that, you’re mostly monitoringwatching for balanced condensation and healthy leaves. If the glass looks like it’s sweating constantly, most people learn (quickly) that cracking the lid and letting it breathe is the calm, practical fix.
Another common experience is “my terrarium looked perfect… and then the plants got messy.” That’s normal. Leaves touch glass, moss shifts, and soil gets sprinkled where you didn’t plan it. This is where a tiny paintbrush becomes the unsung hero of the whole project. People discover that a brush is perfect for sweeping soil off leaves, smoothing corners, and making the inside look neat without disturbing roots. It’s the difference between “I made a terrarium” and “I made a terrarium that looks like a magazine photo.”
Then there’s the “I added too much décor” phase. Dollar stores are basically temptation factories: mini mushrooms, fairy gardens, tiny animals, seasonal glitter thingssuddenly you’re building a terrarium that resembles a theme park. Most DIYers eventually learn that plants look better when décor is used like seasoning, not the main dish. A few stones, one small figurine, maybe a piece of wooddone. Let greenery do the heavy lifting. If you want to switch themes, do it with removable accents so you don’t constantly disturb the plants.
Finally, people often realize that plant choice is everything. A closed terrarium with humidity-loving plants can look stable and lush for a long time. But mixing plants that crave different conditions creates frustrationsomething is always unhappy. This is why so many terrarium guides emphasize matching plants to the environment: closed jars favor tropical mini plants and mosses; open containers are better for succulents and drier setups. Once you experience how much easier it is when your plants agree on the vibe, terrarium building becomes less guesswork and more satisfying routine.
Bottom line: cheap terrariums aren’t “cheap-looking” when they’re built with smart layers, compatible plants, and a light hand with water. The best experience is watching it settle inless fog, steadier growth, and that little spark of pride every time someone says, “Wait… you made that from a dollar store jar?”
